Trending February 2024 # Launching Apps In Low Resolution Mode On Retina Display Macs # Suggested March 2024 # Top 8 Popular

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When it comes to most modern Macs, they come equipped with ultra high-resolution displays known as Retina displays.

These displays are the same size as standard displays, but come with much denser pixel-per-inch (PPI) specifications than your average display.

In this tutorial, we’ll be showing you how you can launch apps on your Retina display Mac in normal resolution, rather than in its higher Retina display resolution form.

Why to launch apps in non-Retina resolution

For most people, this is a question of why you would actually want to do this in the first place. After all, you just spent a bunch of money on your fancy Mac, and you don’t want to sacrifice viewing quality because the Retina display looks so nice.

On the other hand, there are a number of reasons why you may want to launch an app in standard resolution, rather than in Retina resolution; for example:

To troubleshoot video card problems

To better accommodate an external display

To reduce impact on system resources

To reduce graphics card heat output

To reduce problems if an app has a bug in Retina resolution mode

And more…

While I understand most apps work without a hitch, it’s good to know that it’s possible to launch your apps in their native resolution mode. So without further ado, let’s discuss how you can do it.

How to launch Mac apps in standard resolution

If you’ve got a Retina display-enabled Mac, you can follow these steps to launch an app in standard resolution instead of Retina Display resolution:

1) Open a Finder window and navigate to your Applications folder.

3) In the Get Info menu, you will want to put a check mark in the box next to Open in Low Resolution.

4) From your Applications folder, launch the app you just changed the settings on and it will launch in the standard resolution instead of the higher PPI resolution that was formatted for your Retina display.

What’s the difference?

With the Retina display resolution, you would get crisp text and ultra sharp edges, but with the standard resolution, you’re going to see a hazy and/or blurry effect to almost everything in the app because it’s being rendered at half of the resolution that it was intended to be.

In the example below, the top is rendered in Retina display resolution, and the bottom is rendered in standard resolution. You can see a clear difference in clarity between the two if you focus on the buttons in the navigation bars, as well as on the text throughout the screenshots.

In the terms of what this will do for you, if you’re running an external display with an ultra-high resolution and you don’t think your computer’s graphics can keep up with it, then reducing the resolution of the apps you intend to use on it is one way to reduce the load on your GPU to prevent poor performance or hardware damage.

In many cases, apps will load quicker because they don’t have to spend too much time rendering. On the other hand, many modern computers are so fast that you may not even notice the differences. They’ll be minimal at best.

Wrapping up

Indeed your Mac comes with a way of launching apps, whether they’re pre-installed or third-party, in a lower standard resolution mode.

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Display Showdown: Amoled Vs Lcd Vs Retina Vs Infinity Display

Read next: P-OLED vs IPS LCD display technology explained

Roughly speaking there are two main types of displays used in smartphones: LCD and LED. These two base technologies have been refined and tweaked to give us AMOLED and IPS LCD. The former stands for Active Matrix Organic Light-Emitting Diode, while the latter means In-Plane Switching Liquid Crystal Display.

All of this hasn’t gone unnoticed by the marketing people, which means that plain old AMOLED or regular IPS LCD aren’t the terms used in the marketing fluff. Instead, we have Super AMOLED, Dynamic AMOLED, Super LCD, Super Retina OLED, Super Retina XDR, Infinity Display, and so on. But what’s any of that actually mean?

AMOLED

The LED part of AMOLED stands for Light Emitting Diode. It’s the same tech as you find on many home appliances that show that the power is on with a little red light. An LED display takes this concept, shrinks it down, and arranges the LEDs in red, green, and blue clusters to create an individual pixel.

The O in AMOLED stands for organic. It refers to a series of thin organic material films placed between two conductors in each LED. These produce light when a current is applied.

Finally, the AM part in AMOLED stands for Active Matrix, rather than a passive matrix technology. In a passive matrix, a complex grid system is used to control individual pixels, where integrated circuits control a charge sent down each column or row. But this is rather slow and can be imprecise. Active Matrix systems attach a thin film transistor (TFT) and capacitor to each sub-pixel (i.e. red, green, or blue) LED. The upshot is that when a row and column is activated, the capacitor at the pixel can retain its charge in between refresh cycles, allowing for faster and more precise control.

The image above is a close-up shot of the AMOLED display on the Samsung Galaxy S8. The RGB triangular pattern is clearly shown. Towards the bottom of the image, the green and red LEDs are off and the blue LEDs are on only slightly. This is why AMOLED displays have deep blacks and good contrast.

The pros and cons of AMOLED

Pros:

Plastic substrate is thin and light.

Plastic substrate offers better shock absorption and less risk of breakage.

Excellent viewing angles.

Potential for a very wide color gamut.

Deep blacks and excellent contrast ratio as individual pixels can be turned off, making it well suited for HDR.

Good energy efficiency and battery life.

Cons:

More difficult and expensive production techniques (i.e. curved displays), with unoptimized yields affecting availability.

Blue LEDs degrade faster than red or green, reducing the panel’s life cycle before a notable color shift.

“Burn-in” is a risk, as pixels can degrade at different speeds if one part of the display consistently shows a static image.

What are Super AMOLED, Dynamic AMOLED, and Infinity Display?

Super AMOLED is a marketing term from Samsung. It means a display that incorporates the capacitive touchscreen right in the display, instead of it being a separate layer on top of the display. This makes the display thinner.

Dynamic AMOLED is another marketing term from Samsung. It denotes Samsung’s next-generation AMOLED display which includes HDR10+ certification. According to Samsung, Dynamic AMOLED also reduces the harmful blue light emitted from the display, which helps reduce eye strain and helps lessen sleep disturbances if you’re using your phone late in the day!

As for Infinity Display (or Infinity-O Display), it is more marketing from Samsung. It means “a near bezel-less, full-frontal, edge-to-edge” display. However, it is still a Super AMOLED unit.

See also: Right on schedule, AMOLED production costs drop below LCD

IPS LCD

LCD displays work with a backlight that shines through some polarizing filters, a crystal matrix, and some color filters. Liquid crystals untwist when an electric charge is applied to them, which affects the frequency of the light that can pass through. Since the crystals can be twisted to varying degrees depending on the voltage used, a display can be built when they are used with polarized panels. A grid of integrated circuits is then used to control each pixel, by sending a charge down into a specific row or column. Colors are created by the use of red, green, and blue filters, known as sub-pixels, which are then blended by varying degrees to produce different colors.

The above image is of an LCD display from a HUAWEI Mate 8. Notice how the pixels are made up of equally-sized sub-pixels, one for each of the colors: red, green, and blue.

The pros and cons of LCD

Pros:

Excellent natural color reproduction and accuracy.

No risk of permanent “burn-in.”

Well-established manufacturing techniques, making LCD easily available.

Cons:

Viewing angles can be limited due to depth of layers.

Contrast ratio and deep blacks aren’t perfect, due to a blacklight that is consistently on.

Backlight leakage can be an issue in cheaper panels.

Pixels can suffer from lower aperture at higher resolutions, as transistor sizes can’t be shrunk further, reducing peak brightness and wasting energy.

Possible short-term problems with “image retention”.

Super LCD?

Like Super AMOLED, a Super LCD display also incorporates the touchscreen. There is no “air gap” between the outer glass and the display element, which means it has similar benefits to Super AMOLED.

Related: AMOLED vs LCD: what’s the difference?

Retina, Super Retina,  and Super Retina XDR displays Color accuracy and display resolution

Both technologies can be used to build displays with 720p, 1080p, Quad HD, and 4K resolutions. And OEMs have made handsets that support HDR10 using both LCD and AMOLED displays. So from that point of view, there isn’t much difference between the two.

When it comes to color, we know that the blacks will be deeper and the contrast ratios higher on AMOLED displays. But, overall color accuracy can be high on both types of display.

Burn-in and image retention

One of the main weaknesses of AMOLED displays is the possibility of “burn-in”. This is the name given to a problem where a display suffers from permanent discoloration across parts of the panel. This may take the form of a text or image outline, fading of colors, or other noticeable patches or patterns on the display. The display still works as normal, but there’s a noticeable ghost image or discoloration that persists. It occurs as a result of the different life spans between the red, green, and blue LED sub-pixels used in OLED panels.

Blue LEDs have significantly lower luminous efficiency than red or green pixels, which means that they need to be driven at a higher current. Higher currents cause the pixels to degrade faster. Therefore, an OLED display’s color doesn’t degrade evenly, so it will eventually lean towards a red/green tint (unless the blue sub-pixel is made larger, as you can see in the first image in this post). If one part of the panel spends a lot of time displaying a blue or white image, the blue pixels in this area will degrade faster than in other areas.

The theoretical lifespan of an AMOLED display is several years, even when used for 12 hours a day. But some defective panels degrade faster.

The theoretical lifespan of an AMOLED display is several years, even when used for 12 hours a day. However, there is anecdotal evidence that some displays suffer from burn-in quicker than others. Displays that show signs of burn-in after only a few months should be considered defective because they certainly aren’t normal.

While owners of devices with LCD screens might congratulate themselves for picking a smartphone that is immune to burn-in, there can be a problem with LCD panels called “image retention.” Put simply, liquid crystals can develop a tendency to stay in one position when left at the same voltage for extended periods. Thankfully this phenomenon is normally temporary and can usually be reversed by allowing the liquid crystals to return to their relaxed state.

Wrap-up

Picking a winner can be hard as there are many factors to consider, not only about the display technologies but also about the other components in a handset. For example, if you are an AMOLED fan, then would you consider a device with large storage and a good processor, but with an LCD display? The same argument works the other way for LCD fans. Generally, you’ll be fine with either display type, so just pick the handset you like.

Higher-end devices typically sport AMOLED displays and mid-range/budget devices usually use LCD. But that isn’t set in concrete as there are plenty of high-end devices that have LCD displays. With OLED production costs dropping dramatically in recent years, more and more budget options will be offering OLED panels in the future.

Apple Brings Low Power Mode To Mac And Ipad

With the iPadOS 15 and macOS 12 Monterey software updates, Apple brought the iPhone’s handy low power mode to the iPad and Mac, helping extend battery life on those devices.

STORY HIGHLIGHTS:

Apple debuted low power mode on the iPhone in 2024.

It reduces background activity to conserve energy.

iPadOS 15 brings low power mode to the iPad.

macOS Monterey does the same for Mac notebooks.

On the Mac, it supports both plugged and unplugged mode.

iPad and Mac get low power mode to extend battery life

Low power mode made its debut alongside the iOS 9 update that launched in September 2024. With the feature enabled, your runtime increases at the expense of speed and convenience because low power mode temporarily shuts down certain processes to conserve power.

→ Tips for saving iPhone battery life

For example, low power mode achieves battery life savings by reducing the system’s CPU clock speed, which will make your device run and respond slower than usual. In addition to that, low power mode decreases display brightness to extend battery life.

Apple provides APIs for developers to have their apps respond accordingly when the user enables or disables low power mode. For instance, a game could reduce graphics fidelity and decrease the frame rate to increase battery life while low power mode is on, and vice versa.

How to enable low power mode on iPad

The switch to turn low power mode on or off on your iPad is found in exactly the same place within the Settings app as the low power mode toggle on your iPhone:

Open Settings on your iPad with iPadOS 15.0 and later.

Choose “Battery” from the root list.

Slide the switch labeled “Low Power Mode” to the ON position to turn on the feature.

With low power mode active, the battery icon in the status bar turns yellow.

Like on the iPhone, you can also add a dedicated low power mode toggle to the iPadOS Control Center or turn the feature on or off hands-free, by asking Siri.

On the iPad, low power mode is available on any Apple tablet compatible with iPadOS 15.

How to enable low power mode on Mac

The low power mode switch in macOS is found in your battery preferences. On the Mac, however, you can separately toggle low power mode for plugged and unplugged operation.

Choose “Battery” from the System Preferences window.

Select “Battery” or “Power Adapter” from the lefthand sidebar.

Tick the box next to “Low power mode” to turn the feature on.

Conveniently, low power mode on the Mac can be set independently for when your Mac notebook is either on battery power or attached to the power outlet. “Your Mac will optimize performance to reduce energy consumption and increase battery life,” Apple writes.

The low power mode is available on the MacBook and MacBook Pro notebooks manufactured in early 2024 and later, according to Apple’s system requirements for the feature.

Why do so many people loathe badge notifications?

The badge notification is a red badge with the number of unread notifications printed in white.

When necessary, these things appear in the top-right corner of app icons found on your Home screens. But what was born out of pure convenience quickly spiraled out of control, what with the amount of information and notifications that we get inundated with on a daily basis.

Seeing those red alerts all over the place is often enough to make you anxious knowing you must actually open an app to make its badge notification disappear. In the past, you were able to remove these for each app individually in Settings → Notifications (if you don’t see the Badges switch there, then the app in question doesn’t deliver badge notifications).

When are iPadOS 15 and macOS Monterey releasing?

The iPadOS 15 and macOS 12 Monterey betas launched for developer testing on June 7, 2023.

Members of the general public will have a chance to take pre-release software for a spin via Apple’s Beta Software Program in July. Apple will continue beta-testing iPadOS 15 and macOS 12 Monterey until the fall when these updates will see their respective public releases.

This Mode Of Windows Only Runs Verified Apps From The Store

If your computer is running Windows in S Mode or if your settings are configured to restrict the installation of third-party apps, there is a high chance that you won’t be able to install a third-party app, which is pretty bad because if you are someone like me, you seldom use the Microsoft Store and download most of the application directly from their developer’s website. Windows stops users from installing third-party software and gives the following error message.

Still want to run this unverified app?

This mode of Windows only runs verified apps from the Store

If you see This mode of Windows only runs verified apps from the Store and wants to allow the installation of a third-party app, the first thing you need to do is check which version of Windows you are using.

Follow any of the following methods to know which Windows version you are using.

OR

Hit Win + S, type “System Information” and hit Enter

Depending on the version of Windows you are running, you need to execute solutions. We have divided Windows versions into two different categories, they are.

Windows Home S Mode

Non-S Mode Windows

Let us see how to configure both versions.

1] Windows Home S Mode

S Mode in Windows enhances the security and performance of the computer (as you may have read in the error message). However, it does so by forbidding the installation of a third-party application on your Windows computer. So, if you want to install third-party programs, leaving the Windows S Mode is the way to go. Follow the prescribed steps to do the same.

Windows 11

Launch Windows Settings by Win + I.

Go to System and then to Activation.

You will see an option saying Switch to Windows 11 Home or Pro.

You will be asked to Go to the Microsoft Store, so, do that.

Finally, Install the version.

Windows 10

Open Settings.

Go to Updates & Security.

Select Activation from the right panel.

This would do the job for you. You are basically installing a version of Windows that doesn’t have the limitations in question.

In case you see an error message that says Something happened and we couldn’t start the upgrade, go ahead and Install all the available updates and retry. Hopefully, this time, your issue will be resolved.

2] Non-S Mode Windows

If you are not using Windows S Mode, then there is no limitation in your version of Windows that stops it from installing non-Microsoft Store apps. What is happening, in this case, is that your Settings is blocking the installation of that particular app. In order to fix the issue, we need to allow the installation of the application from anywhere and everywhere. Follow the prescribed steps to do the same.

Open Settings.

From the Choose where to get apps section, select Anywhere.

Finally, close Settings and try installing the app. Hopefully, it will be installed this time.

We hope that you are able to resolve the issue using the solutions mentioned in this article.

How do I get rid of for Security and Performance, This mode of Windows only runs Microsoft verified apps?

If you see an error that says For security and performance, this mode of Windows only runs verified apps from the Store, then first check if you are using Windows S Version, and then depending on the version you are using, you need to execute the solutions. We have mentioned steps to do the same, in this post. So, scroll up to find the version of Windows and then try the associated solution.

What is S Mode in Windows?

S Mode is a more streamlined version of the Windows Operating System that limits some features in order to grant performance and security to the user. It stops the user from installing a non-verified app and just allows the use of Microsoft Edge. If you do not like these limitations, just opt out of the S Mode using the steps mentioned above.

Launching An On Demand Delivery App: Guide For Entrepreneurs

Every business sector experiences a peak once in a while. There can be varying reasons contributing to its massive boost in sales. One among the few businesses witnessing huge turnarounds nowadays is the on-demand delivery app services segment.

As a blessing in disguise, the COVID-19 pandemic is propelling excessive use of delivery apps among people worldwide. People fearing virus contractions were in the pursuit of looking out for alternative ways to obtain services. 

Nowadays, whenever people have problems, they lean towards the internet and smartphones. By doing so, they have realized the convenience of doorstep deliveries, especially in these unforeseen situations.

The success and popularity of multiple delivery apps have turned the sector into a lucrative business option among various entrepreneurs. 

Are you among those aspiring entrepreneurs who wish to make the most out of the current situation with an on-demand delivery app? In this blog, let’s have a comprehensive look at the steps involved in delivery app development. 

Launching An On demand Delivery App Familiarize yourselves with different types 

There are multiple types of on demand delivery apps varying fundamentally in their approach. They include, 

Person-to-Person (P2P):

In this type, a person offers delivery services to the customers. If you are opting for courier delivery services, this is your best choice. Apps like Postmates work on this model.

Enterprise-to-Person (E2P):

In this type, an existing business entity comes up with on-demand delivery apps to supplement its sales. Most of the food & grocery delivery services come under this model. The E2P is the most sought-after among businesspersons.

Enterprise-to-Enterprise (E2E):

Also read: How To Stream 👀 On Twitch? 5 Min. Getting Started Guide For Streamers, Gamers, and Fans!

Know the top-performing delivery services 

To enhance your on demand delivery app’s sustainability, you need to offer services that the customers demand. Let’s discuss some of the top delivery services here, 

Food delivery services:

If there is one everlasting delivery app, it will inevitably cater to food delivery services. According to BusinessWire, the market is anticipating to reach a whopping value of $154.34 billion by 2023, with a healthy double-digit CAGR of 11.51%.

Grocery delivery services:

The market for grocery deliveries has gained instant popularity amid the COVID-19 crisis. Even before the onset of the pandemic, the online grocery delivery services market has forecasted 22% growth between 2023 and 2023.

Alcohol delivery services:

Apps like Drizzly, Minibar, etc., have already established their apps in this sector and have gained a positive reception. Online alcoholic sales have skyrocketed by 230% ever since the lockdown period. 

Apart from these delivery services, there are a wide array of options, including but not limited to, 

Medicine delivery services

Flower delivery services

Medical Cannabis delivery services

Parcel delivery services 

Launch an on-demand app providing all these delivery services by developing an app from scratch or implementing a ready-made on-demand delivery app solution

The initial thrust is vital 

There are multiple steps involved in developing a delivery app. But if you can crack the initial stages, you can eliminate various hurdles down the way. Hence, keep an eye on these initial steps. 

Identifying the right audience:

It is critical for any business to focus on a set of audience. Before stepping foot into app development, identify your target audience, and visualize their expectations.

For example, if you are to establish a food delivery app in an urban locality, millennials and corporates can be your target audience. The sooner you identify your buyer persona, the better the chances of success.

Have an eye on the bigger picture:

Multiple strings connect to comprise a delivery network, and the coexistence of these systems is vital in sustaining in the industry. You need to supervise the service providers who offer services, the delivery chain that reaches out to users, the customers who require services, and the app site that interacts with other systems.

Your competitors are your trump cards:

Upon finding your desired delivery service, the next step is to analyze your competitors in the sector. This way, you’ll get a more precise visualization of what is expected of your app.

Interacting with your customers can make all the difference 

Your delivery app must offer an enhanced experience to customers. When discussing app experience, you cannot neglect the two fundamental terms, the app design, and features of the app.

If you can offer a feature-rich app with a seamless workflow, you escalate your chances of registering a place in users’ smartphones. 

The impact of UI/UX:

The app design creates an initial impression with the users. A simple and intuitive framework, guiding users to find their services effortlessly, can make them come back to your app in the future. However, bear in mind that the complexity of an app design can lead to the loss of potential customers. 

Features can be your selling points:

If you look at parameters that can lure the audience towards an online platform, it is the feature-set of the particular app. As a result, make sure that your app houses a perfect blend of vital and stand-apart features, thereby creating an impression among the people in the shortest turnaround. 

Are Super apps recreating the on-demand app industry? 

What if there’s a provision to offer multiple delivery services under one roof? Doesn’t that elevate the chances of an app’s success to a considerable extent? The rise of Super apps meant just that to the on-demand app industry.

Also read: Top 7 Industrial Robotics Companies in the world

Wrapping up

The market for delivery services apps is breaking records with each passing day. Do not hesitate or have second thoughts about investing in your delivery app development.

You can opt for the Gojek clone app offered by the app development companies if you wish to venture into multiple delivery segments within a restricted budget. Give wings to your delivery business when the sun is shining at its brightest!

Jennifer Atkinson

Jennifer Atkinson is a Growth Hacker at AppDupe, a pioneer in app development is a one-stop solution for all your ride-hailing business needs. Also a blogger and a growth hacker who loves to find new business ideas and help startup entrepreneurs with business consultation.

Image Resolution And Print Quality

Image Resolution And Print Quality

Written by Steve Patterson.

In this Photoshop tutorial, we’re going to look at how image resolution affects print quality.

Have you ever downloaded an image from the internet and then printed it, only to get results that were, well, less than you expected? The image looked great on your computer screen, but when you printed it, it either printed at the size of a postage stamp or it printed at a decent size but looked blurry or “blocky”? The culprit is image resolution.

Actually, that’s not really fair to say. Image resolution didn’t purposely set out to make your life miserable when you printed your internet photo. The problem was simply that most photos on the internet have very small pixel dimensions, usually in the neighborhood of 640 pixels wide by 480 pixels high, or even smaller, and that’s because images don’t need to be very large in order to appear at a decent size and good quality on your computer screen, and also because smaller images download much faster on websites than larger images do (which is a whole other topic that we don’t need to get into here).

So what can you do to make photos you download off the internet appear just as high quality when printed as photos you took yourself with your digital camera? The answer – absolutely nothing. There simply are not enough pixels in most internet images to allow them to print at high quality, at least not without printing them at the size of a postage stamp, that is. Let’s find out why.

First of all, let’s get off the topic of downloading images from the internet, since we really shouldn’t be doing that anyway without permission from the copyright owner, and look at image resolution in general. I cover it in much more detail in the Image Resolution, Pixel Dimensions and Document Size tutorial, but let’s do a short recap.

The term “image resolution” means how many of your image’s pixels will fit inside each inch of paper when printed. Obviously, since your photo has a fixed number of pixels, the more of them you squeeze inside each inch of paper, the smaller the image will appear on the paper. Likewise, the fewer pixels you print per inch, the larger the image will appear on paper. The number of pixels that will be printed per inch is known as the resolution of the image, or “image resolution”. Image resolution has everything to do with printing your image. It has nothing to do with how your image appears on your computer screen, which is why images you download off the internet usually appear much larger and higher quality on your screen than they do when you print them.

Download this tutorial as a print-ready PDF!

Let’s use a photo as an example:

An unflattering photo of a horse.

I always laugh every time I see this photo of a horse I took while driving around the countryside one day. Normally this horse stands proud, powerful, full of grace and dignity, yet I seem to have caught him in a rather unflattering moment. He’s standing on a bit of a strange angle, he has a piece of straw dangling from his hair, and he seems to be in the middle of chewing his food. Either that, or he’s desperately trying to crack a smile for me. In either case, since this guy is already embarrassed, as am I for having taken this wonderful photo, let’s use this image as an example.

First, let’s look at what Photoshop can tell us about the current size of this photo. I’ll go up to the Image menu at the top of the screen and choose Image Size, which brings up the appropriately-named Image Size dialog box:

The Image Size dialog box shows us the current size of the photo.

The Image Size dialog box is divided into two main sections, Pixel Dimensions at the top and Document Size directly below it. The Pixel Dimensions section tells us how many pixels are in our image. The Document Size section tells us how large the image will appear on paper if we print it. If we look at the Pixel Dimensions section, we can see that this photo has a width of 1200 pixels and a height of 800 pixels. That may sound like a lot of pixels (1200 x 800 = 960,000 pixels!), and it certainly would be if we were displaying this image on a computer screen. In fact, at 1200 x 800, it may be too large to fit entirely on your screen! But just because it looks nice and big on the screen doesn’t necessarily mean it will print nice and big, at least not with any degree of quality. Let’s take a closer look at what the Document Size section is telling us:

The Document Size sections tells us how large or small the photo will print based on a specific resolution.

The Document Size section of the Image Size dialog box tells us two things – what the current resolution of our image is, and how large or small the image will appear if we print it based on that resolution. Currently, our resolution value is set to 72 pixels/inch, which means that out of the 1200 pixels that make up our photo from left to right (the width), 72 of them will print inside each inch of paper, and out of the 800 pixels that make up the image from top to bottom (the height), 72 of them will print inside each inch of paper. The value in the Resolution box is for both width and height, not the total number of pixels that will print. In other words, for every square inch of paper, 72 pixels from our image will be printed from left to right and 72 pixels will be printed from top to bottom. The total number of pixels printed in every square inch of paper would then be, in this case anyway, 72 x 72 (72 pixels for the width times 72 pixels for the height), which gives us 5184 pixels!

Let’s do some simple math ourselves to make sure that the width and height being shown to us in the Document Size section is correct. We know from the Pixel Dimensions section that we have 1200 pixels from left to right in our image and 800 pixels from top to bottom. Our print resolution is currently set to 72 pixels/inch, so to figure out how large our image will be when printed, all we need to do is divide the number of pixels from left to right by 72, which will give us our print width, and the number of pixels from top to bottom by 72, which will give us our print height. Let’s do that:

800 pixels high divided by 72 pixels per inch = 11.111 inches

Based on our own simple calculations, at a resolution of 72 pixels/inch (ppi for short), our image would be 16.667 inches wide by 11.111 inches high when printed. And if we look at the Document Size section once again:

Confirming the print size shown in the Document Size section.

That’s exactly what it says! Wow, a 1200 x 800 pixel photo is large enough for an 11 x 14 inch print, with a little extra to spare! That’s great!

Sadly, no. If only life were that simple.

The fact is, 72 pixels/inch is not enough to give us sharp, good quality, professional looking images when printed. It’s not even close. To give you an idea of what I mean, here’s a rough approximation of how the photo would look on paper if we tried to print it at a resolution of 72 pixels/inch. You’ll have to use your imagination a bit here and try to imagine this at 11 x 16 inches:

The photo as it would appear on paper when printed at only 72 pixels/inch.

Doesn’t exactly look good, does it? The problem is that at 72 pixels/inch, the image information is being spread out too far on the paper for the photo to appear sharp and detailed, sort of like spreading too little peanut butter over too much toast. The photo now appears soft, dull and generally unappealing. We don’t see this problem on a computer screen because computer monitors are generally referred to as low resolution devices. Even a photo with relatively small pixel dimensions, like 640 x 480, will look great on a computer screen. Printers, however, are high resolution devices, and if you want your photos to appear sharp and detailed when printed, you’ll need a resolution much higher than 72 pixels/inch.

So how high of a resolution value do you need for professional quality printing? The generally accepted value is 300 pixels/inch. Printing an image at a resolution of 300 pixels/inch squeezes the pixels in close enough together to keep everything looking sharp. In fact, 300 is usually a bit more than you need. You can often get by with a resolution of 240 pixels/inch without noticing any loss of image quality. The professional standard, though, is 300 pixels/inch.

Let’s take our same image then at 1200 pixels wide by 800 pixels high, change our resolution from 72 pixels/inch to 300 pixels/inch, and see what we get. Here’s the Image Size dialog box again showing the new resolution of 300 pixels/inch. Notice in the Pixel Dimensions section at the top that we still have 1200 pixels for the width and 800 pixels for the height. The only thing that’s changed is our resolution, from 72 to 300:

The print resolution has been changed to 300 pixels/inch.

With our resolution now increased from 72 to 300 pixels/inch, this means that out of the 1200 pixels that make up our image from left to right, 300 of them will now print inside every inch of paper, and out of the 800 pixels contained in our image from top to bottom, 300 of them will now print inside every inch of paper. Naturally, with so many more pixels squeezing into each inch of paper, we’d expect the photo to print much smaller, and sure enough, the Document Size section is now showing that our photo will print at a size of only 4 inches wide by 2.667 inches high:

The photo will now print at a much smaller size than before.

Where did those new width and height values come from? Again, some simple math is all we need:

800 pixels high divided by 300 pixels per inch = 2.667 inches

The photo will now print much smaller than it would at a resolution of 72 pixels/inch, but what we lose in physical size, we more than make up for in image quality. At 300 pixels/inch (or even 240 pixels/inch), we’d enjoy sharp, detailed, professional quality print results:

Higher print resolutions result in smaller photos but much better image quality.

Of course, most people don’t print their photos at weird sizes like 4 x 2.667, so how do we make sure we’re going to get professional quality print results with more standard print sizes like 4 x 6? An excellent question, and the answer comes to us once again through some boring yet simple math.

Let’s say you’ve taken some photos of your recent family vacation using your digital camera and you want to print out some 4 x 6’s on your printer. We know now that in order to achieve professional quality prints, we need set the resolution of our images to a minimum of 240 pixels/inch, although 300 pixels per inch is the official standard. Let’s look at both of these resolution values though to see how large of an image, in pixels, we’ll need out of the camera in order to print 4 x 6’s with good image quality. First, let’s look at 240 pixels per inch:

To figure out how large, in pixels, our images need to be in order to print 4 x 6’s at professional quality, all we need to do is multiply 240 x 4 for the width, and then 240 x 6 for the height (or vice versa depending on if your photo is in landscape or portrait mode). Let’s do that:

240 pixels per inch x 6 inches high = 1440 pixels

Based on our math, we can see that in order to print a digital photo as a 4 x 6 at 240 pixels/inch resolution, which should give us excellent quality, our photo’s pixel dimensions need to beat least 960 x 1440. We can see exactly how many pixels that is by multiplying 960 by 1440, which gives us 1,382,400 pixels. Let’s round that up to 1.4 million pixels. That may sound like a lot of pixels but it really isn’t, not when you consider that 1.4 million is the minimum number of pixels you’d need to print good quality 4 x 6 photos using the minimum resolution we can use to achieve good quality, which is 240 pixels/inch. The good news at least is that these days, most digital cameras on the market are 5MP (“mega pixels”, or “millions of pixels”) and higher, so they’d have no trouble printing good quality 4 x 6’s even using 300 pixels/inch for the resolution.

Of course, we haven’t actually looked at how many pixels we’d need to print professional quality 4 x 6’s at 300 pixels/inch, so let’s do that now. We’ll use the same simple formula as above, where we’ll multiply 300 by 4 and then 300 by 6 to give us the pixel dimensions we’ll need:

300 pixels per inch x 6 inches high = 1800 pixels

Let’s do one more quick calculation to see how many pixels we need in total:

1200 pixels wide times 1800 pixels high = 2,160,000

So, in order to print a photo as a 4 x 6 using the professional standard of 300 pixels/inch for resolution, our photo needs to be 1200 pixels wide by 1800 pixels high (or vice versa), which means we’ll need a total of 2,160,000 pixels, which again should be no problem for most digital cameras on the market today which are 5MP and higher.

What if you have a photo you absolutely love and feel it deserves an 8 x 10 print rather than a 4 x 6? How large of an image in pixels do we need to print a good quality 8 x 10? The answer is as easy as when we needed to find out how large of an image we’d need for a 4 x 6. All we need to do is multiply the resolution value in pixels by the width in inches and do the same thing for the height. Let’s first use 240 pixels per inch as our resolution:

Total number of pixels = 1920 pixels wide x 2400 pixels high = 4,608,000 pixels

From our little bit of math, we can see that in order to print a photo at good quality as an 8 x 10, our photo needs to be 1920 pixels wide by 2400 pixels high (or vice versa), for a total of approximately 4.6 million pixels. Now we’re starting to push the limits of lower end digital cameras. A 4MP digital camera wouldn’t capture quite enough pixels to be able to print an image at 8 x 10 at 240 pixels/inch resolution. It would fall about 600,000 pixels short. You could still print an 8 x 10 image of course, but you most likely wouldn’t get professional looking results.

Let’s do the same calculations for an 8 x 10 at 300 pixels/inch resolution:

Total number of pixels = 2400 pixels wide x 3000 pixels high = 7,200,000 pixels

Now we’re really pushing the limits as far as digital cameras currently on the market. In order to be able to print a photo as an 8 x 10 using the 300 pixels/inch resolution standard, our photo needs to be 2400 pixels wide by 3000 pixels high (or vice versa), for a total of 7.2 million pixels! Now that’s a lot of pixels! This means you need at least a 7.2MP digital camera in order to be able to print your photos as 8 x 10’s and still get true, professional quality prints.

Of course, keep in mind that most photos require at least a little cropping, which means you’ll need to start with even more pixels. If you know you’re going to be printing a lot of photos as 8 x 10’s, investing in a good quality 8 MP or higher camera is highly recommended. And there we have it!

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